Yesterday we were excited to see that the scaffolding and tarps obscuring the south end of the bridge are coming down!
Bayerischer Rundfunk is reporting that the third phase of the project (arches #3-5) is nearing completion. Arches #6-9 are up next, and the auxiliary pedestrian bridge that’s been standing around with no way for anyone to use it will be connected to the main bridge to divert Fußgänger and Fahrradfahrer traffic again soon.
It struck me as a little ironic that the literal bridge from Regensburg to the rest of Bavaria1 is being repaired, whereas some protesters want to bolster a figurative bridge to Regensburg — and Germany in general — from other countries.
Not much to report here, yet again. Work is progressing, but mostly not in ways the casual passers-by can detect. But here’s one exception: they’ve built up scaffolding for work on the bridge supports.
The south end (still) appears to be nearly completed, when you peek through the tarp gusting on a breezy day. Looks like they need to mortar in the gaps between the pavers and that section of the bridge should be completed.
I got back Friday evening from most of a week in Romania on a business trip and wanted to spend a little time on foot out before departing today for a full week in Hamburg on a training trip (where I am a trainee, not the trainer). We were expecting some gathering of crowds because of the 2016 Bayerisches Jazz Weekend, but were surprised to find a parade of protesters along our path back from grocery shopping. They’re protesting the policy of Sicherer Herkunftsstaat, which makes it easy to deport asylum seekers based on their country of origin. See more here if you can read German.
Note the little girl in the Che shirt in the foreground.
It is possible to eat too much pizza. For me, at any rate.
On our last jaunt through Italy, I kept meaning to order something that wasn’t pizza and failing spectacularly. Every region has different specialty toppings! I might miss out on something!! But when my body finally said NO MORE, I went for Pasta e Fagioli (pasta and beans) instead. And my goodness, was it ever rewarding. Borlotti beans are the creamiest, most flavor-absorbing beans I’ve ever come across. I plan to try making it sometime with dried beans, but this canned version comes together in a flash.
100 g diced pancetta or bacon 2 T olive oil 1 large or 2 small yellow onions, diced 3-4 cloves garlic, pressed 1/2 c/100 ml white wine 1/4 t red chili flakes 1 large sprig fresh rosemary leaves 4-6 sprigs fresh thyme leaves 2 bay leaves 1/2 t ground black pepper 4-5 c/1-1.25 L weak chicken broth 3 15 oz/400 g cans borlotti (cranberry) beans, drained and rinsed 1 generous c/250 g short pasta 1 c/200 mL boiling water (optional) 1/2 c/100 g grated Pecorino Romano or Parmesan cheese 1/4 c/50 g chopped parsley
Heat deep soup pot to medium heat. Add pancetta or bacon and cook, stirring frequently, until a little fat renders, then add olive oil. Turn heat to medium-low and add onions and garlic, stirring frequently until tender and translucent, but not browned. Add white wine, chili flakes, rosemary, thyme, bay leaves and black pepper, stirring until wine is mostly evaporated. Add chicken broth and beans and allow mixture to simmer for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally and turning down heat if necessary.
After 10 minutes, remove bay leaves and strip rosemary and thyme leaves from sprigs, returning the leaves to the pot. Either mash some of the beans with the back of a spoon or briefly use a stick blender, making sure to leave about half of the beans intact. Add the pasta (if there’s not enough liquid to cook the pasta or the soup is already too thick, add the extra water) and cook until almost done. Remove from heat and cover for 5 minutes. Serve with grated Pecorino or Parmesan and chopped parsley.
We walked our feet off in Rome. And why not? We had great weather the whole time we were there, and armed with some offline Google Maps marked with stuff we wanted to see or eat, we navigated on foot a lot after taking the Metro in from Cornelia to someplace more central, like Barberini or Spagna.
One glaring and super-convenient exception to that: our hotel offered a shuttle service from their reception to the entrance lines of the Vatican Museums. It was dirt cheap but classy door-to-door service — one of our favorite things about the hotel.1
Vatican Museum and St. Peter’s Basilica
Last time we visited St. Peter’s, but didn’t hit the Vatican Museum. This time we did. It was impressive. I took a few photos, but none of the Sistine Chapel ceiling — that’s a big no-no.
Trevi Fountain, Spanish Steps
The Spanish Steps were under construction while we were there.
We hunted around for this fountain on our last visit with no joy. I felt vindicated this time, but it’s really because offline Google Maps have gotten a lot better since then. Perhaps it’s just as well we gave up last time, since it was refurbished in the meantime.
This was our second trip to Rome with no close-up visit to the Coliseum. We walked by a few times, and even early on a Sunday morning, it was swarming with tourists and especially the tour group guides vying for our attention. Having been to the arena at Nîmes twice, where we took the excellent self-guided audio tour, we opted to skirt around the outside and avoid the throngs.
Trastevere and Testaccio scenes
We spent a lot of time exploring Trastevere. It’s a hip neighborhood. Let’s hope it retains its character. We chilled out one afternoon in Testaccio, too, hoping to hit up the Volpetti deli for some awesome edible souvenirs, but alas — we failed to do our homework and arrived on their Ruhetag.2
And that was end of our time in Rome — this time. We may well be back!
Next stop, Gaeta on the way to Naples
The next leg of our journey was to Naples, but we decided we’d much rather take a scenic route, if one was to be had, than the boring old highways.
We stopped in at Gaeta to try some tielle3 for lunch. We got rained on a bit on the way in, and that must have scared off any other tourists, because the town seemed practically dead. But it was pretty.
Continuing on, we drove through little town after little town, all of them imploring us to stop and shop for some mozzarella di bufala. We were tempted, but pressed on into the maelstrom that is Neapolitan traffic. More on that in the next post!
Alas, they were pretty disappointing in some other ways. See the previous post. [↩]
We drove in from Lago di Bolsena sometime around 7:00 p.m., expecting to have missed rush hour traffic. Whoops: we landed smack in the middle of it. A friendly taxi driver told us Italians start and finish their workday later, and consequently rush hour traffic runs later. We followed instructions from our GPS and rolled up to our hotel, the Church Palace, oohing and aahing at the gated entrance to the generous and secluded parking around, set several hundred yards back from the Via Aurelia. Continue reading Italy Road Trip May 2016, Part II: Sleeping and Eating in Rome
In May 2016 we took our longest road trip yet through Italy. It was a challenge to plan, given three participants on two continents, all with their own scheduling constraints, but we pulled it off to great success.
Two weekends ago the Reinheitsgebot turned 500 years old.1 Whether that law is still a good thing, or is worth respecting for its age (versus similar, older laws), is kinda irrelevant, if the weather’s getting nicer and you’re looking for an excuse to party. So, lots of areas of Germany did, including Regensburg. We missed most of it, returning from a weekend away in Munich to a sad state of affairs on Sunday afternoon, with just one last little stand still open and serving on Kohlenmarkt.
But this weekend was a long one, for most of us, officially getting Thursday off to go to church and celebrate Christi Himmelfahrt, and tons of people taking the Friday following it as a “bridge day,” allowing a smooth transition to the weekend. This is a good holiday to officially welcome Spring and Summer with your fancy Bavarian clothes, particularly if you’re celebrating Father’s Day. Germans do that on Christi Himmelfahrt, and usually with a lot of booze.
Great day for a Craft Bier Fest then, right? It sure was.
Before leaving Stadtamhof, we saw that the new benches lining the street and intended to keep illegal parking2 down to a minimum, were mostly already in use. Oops. Maybe that particular bench had to take one for the team.
On our march across the bridge towards the Craft Bier Fest, we saw that the Spitalgarten was full to bursting. An oompah band was keeping the spirits up while the patrons were doing the same.
The Craft Bier Fest was not a rip-roaring Oktoberfest-style beer bash. True to its name, it featured a wide selection of brewers selling samples: 0,1 L was the typical glass size. The atmosphere was quite mellow, with brewers on hand to answer questions and talk about their ingredients and flavor profiles and stuff like that. We liked it so much that we went both days, Thursday and Friday. Many of the varieties we tried this weekend are available at a local specialty beer shop, apparently (we’ve only window-shopped thus far).
It was great weather for a little change of beer pace.
There wasn’t much food on offer, surprisingly, but this vendor made a showing:
Not enough beer for you? Well, next weekend, there’s more! 500 Years of Reinheitsgebot carries on in a small town out south of Regensburg called Wolkering.
Sadly, practically nothing new to report. Sarah says they’re still doing something under that tent at the south end of the bridge, and has caught a glimpse once or twice of the bare earth, waiting to be resurfaced with new tiles to match the north end. Probably the disconnected middle section of auxiliary bridge will eventually be connected to the south section, right? They look pretty well lined up already. Unless the south section is to become irrelevant soon. That would be great.
Another great thing would be for the thousands of pedestrians each day to not toss their trash into the bridge framework. It’s filthy.
Wish that the rule shown below would apply to the bridge, too.