Public Service Announcement: Regensburg Christmas Market Opening Hours 2011 are shorter than in previous years — don’t let this ruin your holiday evening plans!
The big market on Neupfarrplatz, closes at just 20:00 Sunday through Wednesday or 21:00 Thursday through Saturday until December 23.
The Lucreziamarkt, with its artisan goods and small musical stage split between Kohlenmarkt and Haidplatz, closes at just 20:00 every night until December 23.
At least the Romantischer Weihnachtsmarkt on the local palace grounds is open later: until 22:00 Sunday through Wednesday and 23:00 Thursday through Saturday. Of course, you have to pay a fee to get in there, but it’s worth it in our opinion: they do a great job of setting the mood with old-fashioned food, drink, and music offerings. Our tip: visit the markets without admission fees first and stop by the palace for a romantischer visit after 20:00 (21:00 on Friday and Saturday), in which case the price of admission is drastically reduced.
The Katharinenspital market — not open every day! — mostly afternoons and evenings through December 23 — is still pretty new (this is only its second year). It’s normally a popular Biergarten on the North bank of the Danube, but there’s a small petting zoo there now along with the usual crafts and eats. Wednesday and Thursday: 16:00-22:00, Friday 14:00-22:00, Saturday 11:00-22:00, Sunday 11:00-20:00
If you can navigate the events calendar on regensburg.de, you might already know this. But we have a feeling lots of folks visiting this year will be caught by surprise having a nice long, warm, indoor restaurant meal and still expecting plenty of merriment outside with a little Glühwein dessert. We were dismayed to find it had all shut down by the time we were ready to roll!
What I love most about the Dult, our twice-per-year carnival in Regensburg, is the people watching. Sure, there are some other perks — fair food, scary rides (owing to their ricketiness, if you ask me), ponies (who doesn’t love ponies!?). Some who’ve visited with me have noted my peculiar attraction to the housewares stands (see those giant wooden spoons below?).
But the Dult brings everyone out, kind of like Cedar Point in the Midwest USA, if that means anything to you. And I get to take inventory.
There was a whole potato on that stick five minutes before I snapped these pictures. I hope this wasn’t the best part of Sara and Luke’s visit to our town/region, but then again, she seemed pretty happy with that potato, so maybe it’s not such a bad thing. Or maybe the comfort-food aspect made all the trials and tribulations of the travel over here seem survivable.
Weather at the first stop on their flight itinerary prevented them from taking off on the day of departure — but only after having spent seven hours in the plane waiting for clearance and runway traffic jams to clear up. 350 flights were cancelled that evening, but Sara and Luke were lucky to have relatives in the area with whom they could spend the night and try again the next day. The next day, they did manage to get on a flight, but it too was delayed for three hours, risking a missed connection in London on their way to Munich (final destination for the first leg of their trip to Europe).
When they finally stepped through the immigration security barrier at Terminal Two in Munich, they were exhausted and dismayed to find they would be wearing the clothes they came in for at least a few more days — somewhere between their last stop in the U.S. and their arrival in Munich both of their bags got lost. Or at least delayed.
In the end, both of their bags were finally delivered to our apartment in Regensburg, but we were never sure when that would be. Sara and Luke called the airline(s) every day trying to get an estimate of when their bags would show up, because waiting around here for them was not part of the plan. So we ended spending a lot more time in Regensburg, waiting for the magical phone call with their luggage drop-off window, hanging out at the Bürgerfest. Which, by the way, was a lot of fun this year despite the weather. It was nice to see Tammy and Sarah cut loose in front of a ska-punk band shell down by the Weenie Shack.*
Maybe that downtime was for the best, since they had a very heavy itinerary — two stops in Spain and a few days in London — after their short visit to Regensburg. We sure enjoyed having them.
It got wintry again right after everything got all warm and moist. The transition period looked a little weird.
The river is behaving normally again; all the emergency barricades are hidden away. The water is still higher than normal and moving fast, but not alarmingly so. Cresting last week on the left, receding this week on the right:
We’ve seen some high water around here, but never like this. The last time it got this high was in 1988.
Here’s what it looked like about a week ago. This is high; normally the lower pylon platform is exposed, such that the Rettungsdienst swimmer dudes can set up their annual Weihnachtsbaum on it. But it’s not really unusual for it to be that high.
High is when the upper level of the pylon is nearly submerged.
Practically overnight temporary barriers popped up all over the place. I guess they work; look at the foot traffic just on the other side of them. These people are not walking on the path: they’re walking through the bushes alongside the path. The path is on the otherside of the wall from them.
For comparison’s sake:
Sorat Hotel view November 2009
Sorat Hotel on Friday
Jahninsel in November 2009.
South Bank path
Wait, there’s supposed to be a path there?
Here’s the slideshow, with more images.
*But six meters above what? Measured from where? I haven’t been able to find this crucial piece of information yet. Apparently it crested last night around 18:00 at 6.27m. Whoever made the 6.30m prediction is kicking himself for sure.
I snapped this on the way to work one morning a couple of weeks ago from the bridge from our island, over the Jahninsel, and across to the Unterer Wöhrd.
We found this guy waiting for us out in the cold at the Adventsmarkt im Katarinenspital. His name is Barny and he’s a Romanian Dwarf Donkey. As we were leaving to warm up back in our apartment, he let out a wail that made everyone stop in their tracks. That was the most sorrowful thing I’ve ever heard at a Christmas market.
This guy might have been drunk — he was interrupting his own shtick to bark out commands at passersby snapping his picture (but not me).
Sort of a self-portrait, snapped on the edge of the Lucreziamarkt on Haidplatz. I would have missed the shot but for our guests for the weekend, who pointed it out.